1000 kilometres

7000 altimeters

We regularly stock up on food and water for 3 days

until the next village

which is sometimes visible as early as 15 kilometres

through the beautifully coloured roofs

the white and grey yurts

and the brown wooden fencing separating the yard from the neighbours

Mongolia versus the Netherlands

the land area is 38 times larger

3.5 million population vs. 18 million

50% of them live in the capital Ulaanbaatar versus 5% in Amsterdam

2 people per km2 vs 520

but there is an similarity

 Mongolia has more horses than people (4 million)

there are more bicycles than people in the Netherlands (23 million)

 both symbolise freedom and mobility

Mongolia has an interesting history. Around 1200, during our Middle Ages, Genghis Khan managed to unite the rebellious Mongolian tribes and extend the Mongolian empire to all of Asia, including China, Russia and parts of eastern Europe. Although millions died in the process, it also brought progress. Genghis introduced laws and trade directives, causing trade between east and west to flourish. That is the Silk Road we cycle.

Much later, in 1920, the Russian Red Army liberated Mongolia from China. Mongolia became the second communist state in the world. It never belonged to the Soviet Union; it was a safe buffer between China and Russia. But Moscow had a lot of influence. Urban designers, architects and artists were sent by Moscow to Mongolia to shape it after the 'Russian model'. This is reflected in the larger towns. Flats in prefabricated concrete, end walls studded with mosaic images, theatrical statues and a ferris wheel, as part of an amusement park. Because, was the philosophy, one should also be able to relax. In the 1970s, factories were built, for wool, cashmere and food processing and workshops for agricultural machinery. But the amusement parks are dilapidated and the factories abandoned because in 1991, when the Soviet Union fell apart, Mongolia's economy also collapsed.

Now everyone drives a Toyota Prius (economical because distances are long) or a Toyota Landcruiser (indestructible in rough terrain). What the cars have in common is that the steering wheel is on the right; they are all used cars, imported from Japan.

And yes, the distances are huge. We cycle more than 1,000 kilometres through endless countryside. In the west, high mountains and desert. We sometimes carry water and food for three days. We see more dead than living animals. On the way, we occasionally pass a village, where we can stock up again. The houses have corrugated iron roofs in many different shades, providing a colourful contrast to the landscape. Next to the stone house are often 2 yurts, for family visits, or for summer living. There is no sewerage, as the wooden toilet hut is in a corner of the plot. And everyone has wooden fences of dark brown boards. Towards the east, the landscape becomes more rolling. But virtually nothing grows. The Mongolian people are friendly, not honking but flashing their lights and waving. We are spoilt with watermelons.

Mongolia is the least densely populated country in the world. Half of its more than 3 million inhabitants live in Ulaanbaatar, which consists mainly of apartment blocks. It is one big traffic jam. But we are not bothered by that on our bikes. We visit Sukhbaatar Square, the Dzhengis Khan National Museum, the Zaisan Memorial and the Gandan Monastery. We listen to the monks chanting their Buddhist mantras. A nice transition from the Islamic Stan countries to the culture of China, South Korea and Japan